A Trip To Paonta





(This is a condensed version of an article written by Mrs Marion Gray, wife of the Rev James L Gray, of the Punjab Indian Mission for the Presbyterian Women's Missionary Union magazine in May 1930.  It describes in words and pictures a journey with their family to Paonta in the northern area of the Punjab Mission field. Their journey was thwart with difficulties due to recent heavy rains).

"...Paonta is a small town - very small - in the centre of a valley lying between the Sewaliks, a low range of hills about 2000 feet, and the great towering Himalayas behind. This valley skirts the Jumna River, and in some places is three miles wide, while at each end it tapers away into the rocky river bed.....''

Our first aim this year was again Paonto, but with sinking hearts we waited through the torrential Christmas rains. day after day it poured; news came through first of one road blocked, then another, and Paonta seemed ungetatable. But we refused to give it up.....

Stores had to be arranged for, and in all we numbered fifteen souls, with luggage, cooking etensils, tents, magic lantern, Scriptures, simple medicines, charcoal [for cooking], and a score of other etceteras.


Starting out for Paonta with the trusty Model T Ford car

So, at last, the luggage was despatched in bullock carts by one road.... and as rain was still falling, we waited, and two days later we set out by the only possible motor road, a long round-about way, but we had hopes of getting through....


Crossing the dam near Majra
Note the car sitting in a wagon on rails ready to cross the dam

All went well until we reached within eight miles of Paonta, where we left the good road, but those eight miles held sufficient thrills to last us quite a while.


The first 'mishap', requiring the stalled car to be pulled out of a river.
Rev Gray lifting the bonnet, with Mrs Gray at the wheel.

The rain had stopped two days before, but since then no vehicle had crossed these eight miles  - and a rough mountainous track is not the easiest of roads to negotiate in fine weather, while after rain it is rather terrifying. However, lifting or rolling aside the innumerable boulders which had been washed down on to the track, our cook boy and I kept clearing the way, and the splendid 'Ford' bumped and limped her way precariously over the worst parts, until we came to the Jumna River.... There was a [ferry] boat but it was anchored on the other side of the fast flowing Jumna and between us and it rushed a full, turbulent flood of angry water, about half a mile wide. So, for the present that was the end of our journey.....

As we stood and watched the river we noticed two men approaching with the weirdest inflated animal skins slung across their backs.


The 'boatmen' with their unusual floats.


A closer view of the inflated hide floats

These we learned were the only possible means of transport across to our destination. With eager interest we watched them take passengers across. The 'float' was put in the water, then the 'pilot' lay across the skin, while the passenger lay on his face across the pilot's back, resting on the float lengthwise, and with the help of a tiny paddle in front, and kicking his feet vigorously behind, the pilot somehow managed to land his passengers on the other side, more or less dry. (Mr Gray, who crossed this way, says he landed mostly wet).

The owners of these improvised boats were doing a roaring trade, but when we had a chance we hailed them to ask them if they could get us and our baggage across by any means at all.


Preparing the luggage to be floated across the Jumna River

We had decided to leave the car and get across ourselves. I wasn't prepared for the unladylike means of transport I had just witnessed, nor could the little ones go in that way; but to our joy the men declared they could tie a small string bed between the two floats, and we would be quite comfortable squatting on that. It sounded fine, so we booked our passage for the next morning !


The luggage successfully being floated across the Jumna River.
The boatmen using their feet as paddles.

The photograph will show you our unique 'boat' but it took us across safely, and the boys thought it a great thrill.


Mrs Gray and the children sitting on the string bed tied between the two inflated skin floats

We did the last four miles by bullock cart, and arrived to find our luggage there too.


The final leg of the trip to Paonta by bullock cart

The next morning at 2 o'clock our fellow workers arrived, after a most trying journey of four days, and it was with real thanksgiving the entire party gathered for prayers the next morning. By three different routes, through real difficulties and dangers, God had brought us all safely.....
 

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